Exclusive - Bertrand Duchaufour
Posted by Niven & Joshua on Tuesday, 10 January 2012 - Leave a comment
Bertrand Duchafour has worked with Comme des Garcons on multiple occasions (Series 1, Series 2 and Series 5) however arguably his most celebrated work with the Japanese company came in 2002 with Series 3: Incense. Bertrand created two signature scents for the range, namely Avignon and Kyoto; while their likeness to their namesake is undeniable, their unique, yet ‘wearable’ scents are such their popularity continues to soar.
Niven & Joshua spoke with Bertrand to find out more about his work with Comme des Garcons and his thoughts on the future of synthetic ingredients in fragrance.
Location: Paris, France
What was it that made you decide to enter the world of Fragrance?
BD: The fact that it was an unknown word, something like a virgin earth to discover, at the end of the 70’s when I realised what perfumery represented. Perfumers could be still considered as pioneers.
You have worked with the most famed brands in fragrance - such as Christian Dior, Penhaligon's, Acqua di Parma and Givenchy - but how was it that you came to work with Comme des Garcons?
BD: It was actually by coincidence. I was part of a collective called “Créations Aromatiques” that partnered with Christian Astuguevieille - the artistic director of the CDG brand, in charge of development. He used to work with the collective on the elaboration of their [CDG] fragrances.
In the Incense Series 3, you really managed to capture the smell (and feel) of the respective places in the fragrances, Avignon and Kyoto. How was it you managed to recreate these environments in scents?
BD: Avignon was the exact retranslation of an incense of church, the one I used to smell during my own childhood, during mass. Kyoto on the other hand is directly inspired by an incense in powder I bought when I was living in Japan during the 90’s.
Many scents today are using synthetic ingredients, and many to great effect, Comme des Garcons with their ‘Anti-Parfums’ Odeur 53 and Odeur 71 for example. Do you think technology has helped to grow the fragrance industry?
BD: I am very sure of that. Innovation in perfumery will unavoidably be linked to chemicals!
Do you feel synthetic ingredients detract from the essence of a fragrance and its artistry?
BD: Not at all. Chemicals when they are well controlled are the most efficient “faire-valoir” [representation] of the beauty of natural raw material. I’ll also go as far as saying that chemicals can even become the more intimate part of an accord’s soul.
